A short list of things that work — and one that doesn't.
We'd kayak at dawn. Not as a scheduled activity — the water is still and the wind hasn't come in yet.
We'd take a sailboat out, if the weather holds. Four or five hours, usually with a stop at a cenote. The best operators are small; ask at the front desk.
We'd skip the big tourist boats that leave from the main malecón. Crowded, loud, worse for the stromatolites.
The pirate fort — San Felipe — is small but worth an hour, especially at sunset. Bacalar pueblo is a fifteen-minute drive, walkable in a morning, with a good coffee place and a handful of good shops.
That's the short list. The longer one is for slower days.

